Georges Payot

In the 1960s, mountaineering became more and more technical and committed, the great ascents of this period were most often made by ropes of guides without clients. Distant expeditions are gradually b... In the 1960s, mountaineering became more and more technical and committed, the great ascents of this period were most often made by ropes of guides without clients. Distant expeditions are gradually becoming widespread. Georges Payot, originally from Chamonix, will be among the most active protagonists in the valley but also abroad. He was born in 1941, became a guide at the age of 20, and embarked on a career as a teacher at ENSA for several decades. Hyperactive and gifted, he made many openings: the first winter of the coveted north face of Les Drus in 1964, with Gérard Devouassoux and Yvon Masino; first of the Central Spur at the Aiguille Verte in 1962, with Martin, Contamine and Labrunie. He will also make high-flying ascents in the Himalayas: Ama Dablam, Annapurnna, Everest... Rescue being essentially organized by guides at the time, he led the search during the Kangchenjunga crash on January 24, 1966, 16 years after the crash of the Malabar Princess, belonging to the same company: Air India. The height of fate, his father, René Payot, died of an avalanche while rescuing during this first accident. A descendant of the large Payot family, Georges is to the Compagnie des Guides what the mountains are to Chamonix: inseparable.